E-TES FAQs

1. Can I use an E-TES with dehumidifiers?
Absolutely! However, because the E-TES unit is creating a faster evaporation rate on your drying job, we recommend that you use a dehumidifier with a rating of at least 92 pints a day at AHAM. Another option for removing the moist air from your environment is to exhaust the moist air outside and bring in either unaffected or outside air into your environment.

2. What happens if the GPP in the room gets high when using the E-TES? Isn't a high GPP poor for drying?
Great question! With conventional drying what usually happens is that the GPP of the ambient air rises slowly, peaks, and then drops slowly until your structure is dry. When using the E-TES to directly heat the wet materials, the GPP in the room will not slowly rise but skyrocket; however, the GPP will drop tremendously as well. So, basically you are turbo drying the wet material. At the end of the day, though, your structure is just as dry as with conventional drying. Directed Heat Drying™ just dries wet materials faster.

3. Bottom line is that I'm in business to make money. Why would I want to dry faster when the insurance companies are fine with paying my 3-5 day drying bill?
First let me answer a question with a question. If you could make the same amount of money in 2 days that it would take 4 days, would you be interested? Of course you would! When you are using E-TES units, the adjusters really don't care how you dry a structure. They just want the file closed. To an adjuster, the bottom line is this: the longer the file is open, the more money he is spending. So here is a question you might want to ask your adjuster next time. "If you had a choice for this particular mitigation job with the price of (just as an example) $8,000 and I can dry it in 2 days or 4 days - same price, which would you choose?"They would choose two days right? But if you were going to make $8,000 on a 4-day drying job and the job were an hour away, then that means 8 hours of driving and 8 hours of labor. Why don't you just dry it in 2 days? Then you will cut your gas & labor cost by 50% (just driving back and forth to the job). Next, you will notice your PROFIT increases. Not a bad problem to have!

4. Can I use Directed Heat Drying™ and still be within the industry standards?
Most certainly. Here are just some examples of what the IICRC S500 states about heat drying:
12.1.22 & 12.1. 23 (Page 52) Heat accelerates evaporation, heat should be applied directly to materials...
12.3.1.1Partial (or soft) floating of carpet. Carpet acts as an insulator and holds heat close to the materials being dried.
12.3.2.10.4 Drying walls, solid wood floors, the underside of sub floors, etc. can be accelerated by applying heat to the materials.
There are many more similar statements acknowledging the value of heat drying. If you are interested, please visit www.tesdryingsystem.com or contact us at tesinfo@tesdryingsystem.com.

5. If I can't float, tent, or contain the heat, can I just use my E-TES just as another air mover for top-down drying?
Yes, but in that case you will be just heating the air - and heat rises. You probably won't see a tremendous difference in your drying time. The reason is that the vapor pressure of the wet material is going to be close to the vapor pressure of the air, which means slower drying or slower evaporation. BUT you will find that using the E-TES as another tool for top down drying will be faster than if you just use air movers as usual.

6. Do you really think that Directed Heat Drying™ is the future of the restoration industry?
I don't think it's the future. I think that heat drying is NOW. Let's ask an interesting question. If heat drying were NOT the future, then why are leading manufacturers selling all their large dehumidifiers that operate between 70° - 120°? They used to only operate between 70°-90°. Something to think about, right? What's interesting is that outside of our industry we ALL use heat to dry things faster. If heat isn't the answer, then from now on you're not allowed to use heat when you're using your clothes drier, the defroster on your car during the winter time, nor heat in your hair dryer. Do you think that would work?

7. What does the IICRC S500 state about vapor pressure?
IICRC S500 Chapter 5 - Page 122 "Psychrometry by definition" = Evaporation occurs if the vapor pressure of the air is LOWER than the surface vapor pressure of the material. Ok, so what we have been taught? If we dry the air in the room, then the moisture will want to come out of the material into the air and the dehumidifiers will remove that moist air, right? There is nothing wrong with that. It works and we have been doing it for years. However, according to the definition, "Evaporation occurs if the vapor pressure of the AIR is LOWER than the surface vapor pressure of the material." What would happen if we raised the vapor pressure of the material HIGHER than the vapor pressure of the air? Faster evaporation would occur. How would you raise the vapor pressure of the wet material? Heat the materials. For every 20° we raise the temperature of wet material, we double the vapor pressure in that material. For example, if the surface temperature of the wet material was 60° and then we heated the material to 80°, then the vapor pressure in that material would double and the evaporation process will be faster.

8. Do you think we should manage or track surface temperature of the wet material?
According to the IICRC S500: 6.1.3 (page 20) Restorers should manage both AIR & SURFACE temperature in order to enhance drying and avoid potential related damage... Think about this: If you start to take surface temperatures of the wet materials on your drying jobs, what do you think you will find? That the material, because it's wet, will usually will be cooler than the ambient air. If the material is cool, then what kind of evaporation rate do you have? SLOW. However, if you heat the wet materials, guess what kind of evaporation rate you would have? You're right: FAST! So the question I have for you is why don't we track surface temperature? Something to think about? The IICRC S500 states that a restorer should manage not only the air temperature but the surface temperature as well. The next time you are on a job and wonder why your wet material is NOT dried in two days, check the temperature of the wet material. It's probably cool - which just means slower drying. Then you will remember, if you HEAT the wet material (NOT just the air) your evaporation rate will increase.

9. What are the recommended temperature settings for the Smart Dry System when trying to control ambient air temperatures and wet surface temperatures on hardwood, drywall, plaster, ceramic tile, etc.?
Answer:95°F for ambient air temperatures and no more than 120°F for wet surface temperatures.When comfort and materials are not a concern, higher ambient air temperatures would increase the evaporation potential.

10. What size of areas can each unit handle regarding hardwood flooring and floating carpet?
Answer:Solid wood floor systems:up to 500sf, but due to the ease of floating plastic, that may be increased.Floating carpet will depend on the carpet density, construction and installation, but one per room will usually suffice.If not, then a second air mover can be used with the E-TES or a second E-TES in an adjacent corner can be added.

11. What are the main differences of using the 120 unit vs. the 240 unit?Which is preferable in what circumstance?
Answer:The 240 v unit has approximately twice the BTU output than the 120 v unit, so it will heat faster and may maintain temperatures better, but since we recommend 95°F ambient, they usually perform about the same.240 v units also have the advantage of being on a dedicated circuit.120 v units can be used with standard outlets or with power distribution boxes, so many contractors have found them to be more convenient or versatile.

12. What should the average dry times be for drying particular situations, for example; hardwood flooring, saturated OSB or plywood subfloors under carpet and cushion, concrete subfloors under carpet and cushion, crawlspaces, etc.?
Answer:Calculating dry times if very difficult with so many variables with materials, temperatures, etc.; however, most of the contractors using E-TES units report dry times of one-half to one-third the time of conventional drying methods.

13. Can the E-TES unit be used by itself to dry hardwood flooring when the contractor doesn’t have enough wood floor drying mats?
Answer:We recommend the Reets Drying Academy principle of "Hot, Dry, Airflow, To the Water."Without floor drying mats (FDM), it is difficult to get the Airflow To the Water.Contractors will get more consistent, predictable results using the FDM.While we’ve had reports of contractors drying with the FDM, we don’t recommend it.

14. What would determine whether closed drying system with high temp LGR dehumidifiers should be utilized vs. open air drying system?
Answer:Although, there may be others, cost, security or access are the most common items to consider. The "Modified Open System" or "Air Exchange System" is typically a lower cost.Security can be accomplished much like desiccant users have been doing for years.While "high temperature" LGR dehumidifiers may offer a small advantage to water removal over "non-high temperature" units, we have found they aren’t always needed.Most any large LGR dehumidifier will work.We are not "feeding" it high heat/low humidity air so that it becomes ineffective above the typical 90°F temperatures.The E-TES units are "evaporation machines," so there is a higher dew point than conventional drying.LGR dehumidifiers perform better in higher dew points environment with Directed Heat Drying™.

15. How many air movers are recommended?Just the one for the heating unit and possibly one more if needed to help with floating the carpet or plastic?
Answer:Correct – one for the unit and possibly another for difficult to float materials (heavy carpet.)Other units would be used for exhaust with the air exchange system for humidity control.

16. When there are lots of personal belongings and heavy furniture how is it recommended the furniture/belongings be placed to guarantee the best results?
Answer:Anything heat sensitive should be removed.Electronics can stay, but we recommend unplugging them.Furniture can be blocked or put up on our "floaters." Beds can put placed at a 90° angle to the E-TES to allow airflow under the bed and throughout the room.Furniture can also be moved to one side to dry that area and then moved to the other side.For hard surface areas, furniture can be place on top of the plastic.The overall goal is to get airflow to the wet surfaces, so any manipulation of contents should help to accomplish that.

17. In a typical home what is the recommended electrical usage limitations?
Answer:This varies so much that each structure should be evaluated as you would for conventional drying.With less air movers and, potentially, dehumidifiers, the overall amperage may not be more than conventional drying.Utilizing 240v units or power distribution boxes, there may be an additional 48 amps @ 120v (30 amp Dryer plug) and 80 amps @ 120V (50 amp Range plug) for a total of 128 additional amps available.Each cord of an E-TES 120v unit will need its own 15amp circuit.An additional circuit is needed for airmovers.

18. Jeremy was stating that he would recommend all carpeting be power stretched to be reinstalled properly.If that is true that would affect our pricing estimates.Can you assist me in determining what we should allow contractors to reinstall carpet when using E-TES?
Answer:Although Jeremy is stating this, it is the Standard For Installation Of Residential Carpet, CRI 105 that specifies carpets should be power stretched.We have found that many corners can be kicked back into place if the installation integrity remains and it was properly installed initially.This is best accomplished when the carpet is still heated.This would be a minimal charge.Reinstallation of an entire room may be the greater a minimum charge or $3.00-$5.00 per square yard, in my experience.

19. Generally, how many BTU’s of heat is generated from each unit and is it a viable option when the ambient air needs to be heated in the drying chamber?
Answer:The E-TES units produce about 10,200 BTUs/hr for the 120v unit and 20,400 BTUs/hr for the 240v unit.If used for supplemental heat only, there may need to be an adjustment, since it is not being used as a structural drying product.

20. Please list when the Hydronic unit is recommended vs. the E-TES unit.
Answer:Simple answer is the size of the project or very low amounts of electricity are available (could be run off a generator in power outages).The hydronic system is best used when three or more exchangers are needed.If E-TES units can be used, it is generally more cost effective.